Nonbei Yokocho: Shibuya's Narrow Alley of Izakayas and Standing Bars
Running parallel to the JR Yamanote Line tracks just north of Shibuya Station, Nonbei Yokocho is a 60-meter-long alley packed with roughly 40 tiny bars, izakayas, and standing drinking spots, some of them barely wider than a doorway. The name translates roughly to Drunkard's Alley, and it has been serving drinks to salarymen, students, and tourists since the postwar years. The alley is one of the last surviving pockets of old Shibuya in a neighborhood otherwise dominated by glass towers.
The Atmosphere
Most of the bars in Nonbei Yokocho seat between four and eight people, and the counter is often the only furniture. You sit shoulder to shoulder with whoever is already there, which means conversation with strangers is more or less mandatory. The buildings are old, the ceilings are low, and the decor ranges from Showa-era nostalgia to sports memorabilia to nothing at all. The alley is covered, so it stays dry in the rain, and the light from the bar signs gives the whole street a warm orange glow after dark.
The alley runs from the intersection near Shibuya Station's north exit down toward the Meiji-dori avenue. You can walk the entire length in under two minutes, but most people take their time peering into each bar to find one with an open seat. Some bars have English menus or picture menus, but many do not, and pointing at what the person next to you is drinking is a perfectly acceptable way to order.
What to Drink and Eat
The drink of choice is beer, usually a draft jockey of Sapporo or Asahi for around 500 to 800 JPY, or a shochu highball for similar money. Many bars also serve sake by the glass. Food tends toward simple izakaya fare: yakitori skewers, edamame, oden, sashimi plates, and various fried things. Expect to pay between 2,000 and 4,000 JPY per person for a couple of drinks and some food, though prices vary widely from bar to bar. Cash is king in most of the smaller places, though an increasing number accept IC cards and QR code payments.
Most bars open around 17:00 and close between midnight and 2:00, with a few staying open later on weekends. The alley gets busiest between 19:00 and 22:00, and on Friday nights finding a seat anywhere can take some persistence.
Practical Details
- Address: 1-25 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo (alley runs parallel to JR tracks)
- Nearest Station: Shibuya Station, North Exit (JR Yamanote Line, 1-minute walk)
- Hours: Most bars open around 17:00, close between 24:00 and 2:00
- Price: 2,000 to 4,000 JPY per person for drinks and snacks
- Website: Shibuya area guide